Haiti: Proud, Hopeful & Resilient
Soapstone artisan Chena Jilles with her family.
By: Lexi Severini
When I was told that I would be heading to Haiti this year for our annual trip, I was elated. I’d been researching the country and its art for nearly two years while working on the Macy’s initiative, Heart of Haiti. I felt excited and nervous, grateful and somehow, undeserving.
People will tell you over and over again that going to Haiti will change your life and as much as you’ll try to absorb that, internalize it and prepare yourself, nothing quite prepares you for that moment when your soles mark Haitian soil.
Certainly the level of poverty and the evident lack of order that exists just outside of the airport overwhelmed me. The stray dogs and shoeless children, the tattered clothes and endless line of street vendors all spoke to an obvious truth – that Haiti is still in great need. However, looking closer, I saw that beyond the obvious, there is something that each Haitian exudes – pride.
I could spend the length of this blog post telling you about Heart of Haiti. It would be easy to write about the incredible craftsmanship of the metal artisans in Croix-des-Bouquets or the vibrant colors and unique designs on papier mache that abound in Jacmel. I could share details of our trek to Leogane through a dried riverbed and tangled tree roots into the woods where we met gifted soapstone artists. And while all of that is undoubtedly important, I would rather share with you the story of the hope and fortitude that exists in Haiti because truthfully, each person I encountered in Haiti was proud, hopeful and resilient.
Haiti’s Department of Tourism has declared the country ‘Open For Business’ and the global response has been one of skepticism. I think that if a country’s people are a measure of its potential than Haiti deserves more respect than it’s received. Yvette Celestin – a Heart of Haiti tobacco leaf artisan in Jacmel – invited us into her workshop, which consisted of a tent, a table and a small handful of chairs. Her home was comparable in size to that of a modest master bathroom you might find here in the states.
Despite her circumstances, she’d taken it upon herself to cook an entire feast for us to thank us for visiting her studio and home. We were presented with piping hot lasagna, grilled goat and chicken, fresh fruit and ice cold Coca-Colas.
The delicious Haitian meal, artist Yvette Celestin put together for our group.
How she managed to have the Coca-Cola so cold without refrigeration is beyond me. It occurred to me that this meal was not cheap and a Haitian member of our group confirmed that this was a very generous gesture. For a woman whose dining room doubled as her living room, kitchen and bedroom, this level of generosity was inspiring . We were all humbled with gratitude.
Street artists selling their canvas paintings.
Leaving the hotel grounds and walking through local villages we passed many people in obvious need yet not once did anyone ask us for money. Instead, we were offered beautiful pieces of art for sale. From paintings to sculptures to metalwork, we found ourselves surrounded not by beggars but by businesspeople. They didn’t wear finely pressed suits or shined shoes, but that doesn’t change the fact that they were doing their best to display their craft and make an honest sale.
On the final morning of our trip I learned that Marco, our impossibly upbeat, positive and punctual driver, had a very sick wife whose diagnosis was anything but promising. I asked him why he didn’t tell any of us and how he could keep something so upsetting to himself, he simply replied that this was his business and he does not let his customers see what’s behind his smile. He explained that no one wants or needs to hear about the troubles in his life. “You are here to enjoy your stay” he said, “my purpose is to take you to and from where you need to go.” Quite candidly, he was expressing that he would rather keep this to himself than worry or burden us. I sympathized and admired him so much for that.
It was then when it hit me how selflessly proud the people of Haiti are. Whether sharing a Tap-Tap on a hot day, cooking a feast and opening up their homes to strangers, turning the notion of the poor being beggars on its head or humbly overlooking the devastation of a personal situation to fulfill a professional obligation, the people of Haiti are proud.
It seems we are all constantly identifying the troubles in our lives, so quick to unleash the woes of our days out into the universe. I challenge everyone who reads this to take a bit of advice from my accounts in Haiti. We could all benefit from a strong dose of gratitude.
Lexi,
It was such a pleasure spending time in Haiti with you.
Thank you for being open to the experience of a lifetime!
xoxo
It truly was just that! Thanks for being an absolute rock throughout, Nat!
Lexi, I was honored to go on this journey with you. Beautiful blog post.
I was honored to be considered, D! Thanks again. I loved writing it
This is an amazing and inspiring story. Last year a dear friend of mine visited Haiti on a mission trip with her church and had a fulfilling experience as well.
It is so incredibly humbling. I am lucky to be a part of a group that wants to make a difference. I’m glad to hear your friend felt similarly.
What a beautiful post! Definitely puts our “troubles” in perspective. We actually don’t have many at all. Sounds like an amazing experience.
It really does, doesn’t it? Thanks so much for the kind words!
This post was so inspiring. Born in NYC to two proud Haitian parents, reading this truly touched my heart. I have not been to Haiti since I was a very young child and hope to go in the coming years. I have always known that my people are a proud group of people and your post has confirmed my belief.
Thank you for the kind words, Martine! It was easily the most identifiable characteristic of each Haitian I encountered. I hope you’re able to travel back again soon to see for yourself that despite tragedy, there is endless hope. Thank you for reading!